Another "Reacher" Town??

March 26/2016  Weather 73 Sunny, night 48.

riding 1 of the twisted sisters

At Buckhorn Lake RV Resort  talking with the crowd of bikers we were invited to ride to a town where Pie is worth the drive.  Sounds like something we would like to do.... Who doesn't like pie?  Weekends in the Hill Country is busy riding time, everyone is out enjoying the spring weather .   As we travel south on Hwy 16 from Kerrville we meet up with several riders.   Comically we actually got in the way of some crotch rockets.   These two fellows couldn't wait to get around the 3 of us Harley's.   There are just so many corners and curves it took them a bit to go "zzzinnnggging" by. 

these guys zinged by us

Funny thing was there was some construction on the curvy highway that kept bringing traffic to a 1 lane stop with lights for bridges out.   Ha, ha, ha, ha.   We kept catching them at the construction.    After leaving those 2 fellows we headed west on hwy 337, one of the "twisted sisters roads".   Just a beautiful ride.  On this particular stretch there is a rancher known to have the largest herd of Black Rhino's in the USA.  We slowed down at the gates of his ranch, but couldn't spot any.  Seems silly, what were we thinking....since he probably owns thousands of acres the Rhino's are not going to be hanging out by the road.  Another corner and we are headed to our destination town of Utopia.  On this stretch we were overtaken by not other motorcycles but some Italian sports cars out for a ride.... When they flew by us you could feel the rubber in your face -wow!!!!  

here come the Lamborghini's

and there they go!!!!

What a day and we haven't even got to the town with Pie yet.  The pie is in a cafe in Utopia and that is the "Reacher" town as we call it.  Anyone that reads Jack Reacher by Lee Childs; knows what we are talking about.   He keeps venturing into these little towns across America since the name of the town sounds intriguing.  Why would a town be called "Utopia"..... paradise?  The locals refer to it as Paradise in the Hills. 

the movie poster inside the Lost Maples Cafe

Back in 2011 there was actually a movie shot in the little town for that exact reason, 'Seven Days in Utopia' starring Robert Duvall. 
p.s.  The pie was pretty good :)

the cafe with Pie

Exotic Hunting

March 23/2016  Weather 82 sunny, night 48.

hunting lodge with lookout/blind

When you drive around Hill Country you will continuously see enormous ranches - thousands and thousands of acres.   The fences are extremely high, 6 feet tall and more.   What in the world is inside those fences???

Gates close off every entrance to the ranches, and all have serious fences

 We see all kinds of animals.  Most look like some kind of deer or antelope to us but many have really big racks of antlers or curly antlers or long odd looking antlers.  Then we see animals we just don't know what they are..... What in the world are they?  You have to keep a sharp eye out and you will see these ranches on every road.

Bongo Antelope

We have discovered these are Exotic Hunting Ranches.  Hunters will fly in for the day or weekend or afternoon.  The ranches have all inclusive packages.  Lodges to stay in, the hunting guides, the licenses, fees, facilities to clean and process the "trophy" and ship.  This is a very lucrative business.   The exotics are not animals that are indigenous to Texas.  Such as feral hog, Aoudad sheep, Axis deer, Elk, Sika deer, Fallow deer, Blackbuck antelope, Nilgai antelope, Russian boar, Zebra, Wildebeest, Rhino, Barasingha, Corsican Rams, Scimitar Horned Orys, Addax Antelope, Trans Caspian Urial Sheep, and more. 

Wildebeest

Fees ranging from $5,000 for a Zebra to $12,000 for a Wildebeest.  There are on line auctions to hunt any and all of the Exotics.  Hunting can be also catch and release with dart guns(tranquilizers).    This is crazy........  Just so you know these are not my pictures, I had to look up what a Wildebeest was and a Bongo Antelope!!!  I just read where a hunter paid $23000 on line to dart hunt a Bongo Antelope, he shot it and had his picture taken with it then it woke up and they released it back into the wild on the ranch.  Some call it 'green hunting'.   Not sure about this...... Yes some of the ranches are 50,000 acres but still they all have fences.  So it's not in the true wild.  Some call it canned hunting.   Whatever you want to call it,,, it is really big business here.

 

Cowboys love their Belt Buckles

March 22/2016 Weather  sunny, nice 82, night 48.  

Clint Orms Belt Buckle

This area is such a surprising area for artistic talent.  In a little tiny town called Ingram there is a very unique Silversmith named Clint Orms.  Cowboys have been part of the Texas heritage for half a century.  They don their jeans, cowboy hats, boots and one of their most cherished items.... their belt buckles.  These finely crafted belt buckles are passed down from generation to generation.  Clint grew up being a cowboy, his Dad retired from Rodeos.  He hand tooled his first belt when he was 13 and his first belt buckle when he was 15.   A Clint Orms belt buckle is a work of art and each one is named after a county in Texas.  Celebrities that have been seen wearing his very distinctive buckles are George W. Bush, Mark Harmon, Cindy Crawford, Susan Sarandon, Lyle Lovette, George Strait, Billy Bob Thornton, Tommy Lee Jones, Tiger Woods and Hal Sutton - they have all been customers.

We went into the store to peek around after our rv neighbour told us about this shop.  The day we were there the fellow working the front was just an incredibly nice guy and so proud of the product they make and sell.  

 No price tags of course.  The filigree detail is absolutely incredible.  Just for fun we asked the price of this one,,,,,   Wow.  It costs a lot of money to be a real cowboy!!!!!

this one was about $4200.00 - just the buckle... you need the belt now.....

Billy looked at the far belt without the fancy buckle,,, $2700

Stunning work,,, this briefcase

the top one is salt water alligator - ready to be made into a belt of your choice

Jewelry in the Hills

March 20/2016 Weather 75 and sunny; tonight down to 38.
This story is a rags to riches tale.  Born in 1921 - James Avery would now be 95 years old.  After the war he was offered a job on a beer truck and decided to try making jewelry instead.  The majority of his designs are themed in Christian symbolism. 
In 1954 with $250 in his mother-in-laws two car garage he was self taught in soldering and casting.  At University he studied Industrial Design.... not an Art major!!!    Now the family owned company has over  63 stores and $156 million in sales every year. All hand crafted jewelry still.

James Avery Craftsman - store and studios - out in the countryside

communion vessels made for Pope John Paul II in 1987

store display in Kerrville; headquarters

A Mother's Love by James Avery - one of his most famous designs

Farm Roads and Ghost Towns

March 18/16  Weather 79 sunny, night low 48

old pickup sitting right where it quit running

There is so much motorcycle riding to do, we are somewhat beside ourselves.  Just love it here.    We have been out almost every day.  Have to tell you we have been lost a couple of times .......not sure why we went by that ranch 2 or 3 times!   Huh, bet we are going around in circles!!!  The back roads are so interesting, with a feeling of the past.  Lots of little Ghost towns in the area.  

buildings left in ghost town of Bankersmith

At one time they were stagecoach stops or train stops.  Decades later the main highways and even the train stops are no where near these little cross roads now but the buildings remain.  Pretty cool.

neat old ranch in the hills

for real, this is the farm fence and windmill and tractor just finished work with the sun tarp on it

this style of barn is very common in the area

Rosey is in Quilting heaven.   Every little town has a quilt shop, and they shops are often in really old buildings with so much personality.   The owner in the shop in Medina collected Tea Pots which she displayed on the walls above the fabric.  She has been collecting for years and has over 200, the teapots were so interesting.

teapots up high, everywhere you look in Little Cottage Quilt Shop

Quilt shop in Medina, displays an old sewing machine with her teapots

 If you were into Antiques this would also be your place.  There are 4 or 5 antique shops in every little town.  The lady in the coach next to us is having a ball.   She loves that stuff.   I asked her if the items are worth buying??  She laughed and said "oh I hope so, I spent $2000 today buying antiques".  Oh my goodness.  Wow.  See makes my little quilt hobby look good to Billy.  Haha. 

Comfort

March 15/16 Comfort.  What a nice name for a town.   Makes you want to visit, doesn't it? Comfort.  Let's go explore.
History abounds in this little town.  Back in the late 1800's a group of highly educated Germans moved into this area.   They were fleeing political and religious tyranny.  They were the Freethinkers.  Approximately 1,000 immigrated to the Hill Country in Texas and settled across the area.  One little town was Comfort; a group of 33 individuals led by a Dr.    These people were nobles, philosophers, doctors, scientists, engineers - all highly educated, intelligent people.  Just wanting to be able to form their own opinions on the basis of intellectual reasoning power!   Thus the name.    The group mastered the art of pioneer farming and stayed on for generations,  still today.  The toil of living in the rudimentary cabins and rough living conditions became ironic.  The settlement was referred to as Camp Comfort.  Later the camp part of the name was dropped and the village remained known as Comfort.   The irony was that it wasn't comfortable at all!!!! Today the town is a treasure trove of antique stores and other interesting quaint shopping.  My favorite store was The Tinsmith's Wife.   A needle craft shop.  Just gorgeous, the best one we have ever been in.   Quality yarn and supplies in a vintage old building with rooms that make you want to sit down and start a project right now.  One room had a couch and fireplace and beautiful handiwork on the walls.  Billy left me there for about an hour and he went and found us a great little restaurant to have lunch.   I did not disappoint myself when he returned - I did purchase some yarn for a knitting project, even though I have little experience..... which I excitedly told him about on our way to the cafe for lunch.  (he is so patient.... as if he cares, ha ha.)

beautiful old German home on a side street

downtown has a majority of original Texas limestone buildings preserved

antiques displayed outside on the sidewalks

inside the Tinsmith's Wife shop - just curl up and start knitting

rooms of yarn and displays of hand work in the Tinsmith's shop

Riding the Backroads of Texas Hill Country

March 15/2016  Weather really warm above 85, nights 57.   There is a storm coming by weekend so we are riding early in the week while we can.

The backroads go on forever.

In Hill Country you will like the road.  It is so peaceful and quiet meandering along.

Billy says" are you sure we are not in someones' lane way???

There are lots of Farm or Ranch roads, and many of them are paved.  We head out with no particular destination except to stay on paved backroads.    When they say Ranch/Farm roads they mean it.  Livestock can roam freely on the ranches and across the roads.

Hey!!! Your on the wrong side of the fence....

  At the property lines on the pavement there are the piped cattle guards and often fences that can be shut if need be.  Today all the fences were open, but we had such remote back roads that Billy got tired of slowing down to go over the cattle guards......  Lost count of how many there are......

cattle guards at the property lines to keep them in

Much of the land is about 2000 feet and rolling and rocky so when rains come thru the creeks are full.   Apparently the week before we arrived there was about 4 days of rain.  When you drop down into the low spots there will be a Flood Gauge sign and warnings that the road maybe under water.  

all the creeks were up to the roadways

What street are we on????

Retirement and loving every minute!!!!    Hard to believe we have been in our motorhome now for 5 winters.   Never want to go down that other street again........

Texas in the Spring

March 13 & 14/2016  Weather high 85 low 56 
The road north out of Alpine to Interstate 10 coming from Big Bend is a excellent wide road to travel, hwy 67.  It was a strong wind and hot today so we stopped early at Fort Stockton RV Park.  Our pantry is getting low and the refrigerator is just about empty.  This little park is great cause it has a diner - But - not open on Sunday!  Ahh darn!  Well it's going to be a hodge podge supper tonight and in the morning before we head out we can have breakfast in the diner. 

pulling in to Buckhorn Lake RV Resort

we have a nice view of the ownership RV homes

The Texas Bluebonnets are renowned for their spectacular showing in the Spring in Hill Country.  From Big Bend we are headed East to Kerrville.  This also happens to be Spring Break and it is busy in the RV parks but we were able to call ahead (once in a while it happens.... we actually call and reserve) and get a spot for a month in Buckhorn Lake RV Resort.  We stopped here on our way West and thought it was a great location for motorcycle riding and a beautiful park.

pretty sunset view from our pull in site

Stargazing

Mar 6 to 13   The nights.  Oh the Nights!!!!!!!
Deep in the heart of Big Bend one of the best things to do is sit outside at night and face the sky.   Little did we know that probably the most fascinating things we have seen all week was the night sky.   The weather was perfect for sitting out in the dark.  Best of all no biting bugs.  You have to grab a chair and just gaze away.  

millions of stars

Big Bend is known as one of the outstanding places in North America for star gazing, in fact, it has the least light pollution of any other National Park unit in the lower 48 states.   Our RV Park has a sign posted to have all outdoor lights out by 9 pm as it is a Dark Sky Community and remote from city lights.   Most urban areas have such an abundance of light that very few stars are able to be seen.   Realistically one can see approximately 2000 stars on a clear night here compared to perhaps a few hundred in a medium sized city.  It actually feels like you are seeing stars in your eyes when you look at the sky.  No kidding. 

The Desert Blooms & a Primitive Cemetery

March 12/16 Weather 88 Low 56.   Almost everyday there are times when the winds will gust up to 30 mph.   Maybe a short time but it is not predictable when the wind will stir up.   Tip:  do not leave awnings down when you are away from your RV.    Just at the entrance to our RV park is a very primitive cemetery we could not help but be intrigued with.  A few times we stopped to look and wander through the grave yard.  Beautiful in its own way.
 

Lajitas Cemetery - small flat stones mound the tops of the graves

 Since the weather has been unusually warm here in Big Bend the desert flowers are blooming early.  We are lucky to see them.   The full bloom is not out yet so you have to watch and enjoy the intermittent ones you see.   Along the roadsides the famous Texas Bluebonnets are everywhere.

Texas bluebonnets

In the desert you have to wonder how can such an ugly picky cactus make such beautiful blossoms???  Here is a few pics we gathered along the highways this week in Big Bend. 

Prickly Pear

Barrel cactus

Poppy Thistle

Yucca

creosote bush

Big Bend National Park - Santa Elena Canyon

March 11/16  Weather 77/46.  Cloudy today, a bit of sun.  We put on all our leather gear today to ride.  With the elevation changes and the clouds it will feel cooler than you think.  (turned out to be a smart idea.... we stayed warm).  The $20 park pass into Big Bend National Park is good for 1 week, so we just have to show our receipt at the gate entrance.    Away we go headed back towards the Chisos Mountains where we turn due south on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.  Along the way you will see volcanic leftovers from 25 million years ago; most significantly are the Mule Ear Peaks.

Mule Ear Peaks from miles away

 We could see them from 10 miles away when we approached the park.  Funny I told Billy to look way in the distance at the twin peaks called Donkey's Ears!!!  Well I was close.  Ha ha.  Some tour guide.   The highway is really nice on the bike, twisting and changes in elevation, not narrow at all.   You rise up to see beautiful vistas then drop into basins.

all different colours of volcanic rock

It is the most impressive in Big Bend National Park -you will see the cleft in the wall for miles away, as the Rio Grande changes direction abruptly after following beneath the straight Sierra Ponce cliffs for several miles and heads due west, cutting through the mountains via a deep, narrow gorge. This sharp bend in the river was formed by movement along the Terlingua fault zone that crosses the park.  The Rio Grande carved a 1,500 foot chasm out of limestone..... while Texas makes up one wall, Mexico the other.

the trail into the canyon shelf

rafters on the rio grande through Santa Elena Canyon  - walls are 1500 feet tall

We parked at the trail site and hiked up about 1 1/2 miles, it is really not too bad of a hike for us and the views are really worth while.    This is what we had pictured in our mind all along, these views we have seen in books and TV many times.   We are definitely remembering the old westerns we watched as kids....   Now we know why the gunslingers could not outrun the posses once they hit these canyon walls. 

The prize at the end of this road is the majestic Santa Elena Canyon.

the end of the trail

Rosey feeling pretty small along the canyon